Wild Yeast
WINTER WEATHER ADVISORY LOOK INSIDE
I see the snow outside, and they tell me: that is three inches of snow. I look at it and see how some patches are bare, how some are heaped a foot high. I think about how I could read the topography of snowfall as the visible index of each of the forces that made it – gusts, obstructions, and so on.
If such a scene is a message, it’s a lossy one. But it at least has the advantage of offering itself again on any similar occasion, telling you every time that something is being missed. The gap between snow as we are told to read it and the snow we actually step through tells us that there is something we are not accounting for.
In the same way, the nagging gap between the rendered plan and the resulting landscape has a message. It tells both of the endless resolution of landscape as a medium, and of the habit landscape’s materials have of steering their own way. Plotting synthetic ink on white paper does not very accurately model the situation. If I think about how to create, or just to effect change, in such a situation, I will reach for the arts of taste more than those of sight.
It isn’t accidental that the rhetorics of sustainability, of heritage, of dignity in materials, have all converged over the last few decades on the world of food – it takes less of an argument to accept that a habit of respect in the care of animals and plants translates into the health of human bodies. Creation in such circumstances is a working-with, something that reconciles human desires with the desires of the available partners.
If a certain sort of landscape design cooks a site, rendering it once and for all for humans to consume, it is as possible to ferment a site as well – even to make a living culture like yogurt, at once a product and an environment. To do so requires a set of steps that seem more or less magical – a conjunction of unlikely partners, entered into a series of alchemical rites. And while it is tempting to think of outcomes here as being correct or incorrect, other alternatives are possible.
HOME REMEDIES FOR YEAST INFECTION
What makes the yeast Brettanomyces different from its cousins? The Saccharomyces, added to wort to make lager and ale, make for quick and predictable results under a variety of conditions. But Brettanomyces digests and outputs in widely variant ways, sneaking in to produce notes ranging from bacon to saddle leather. Added on purpose, it takes its time. Or it may as easily sneak into a vat where it was never supposed to be. Off batches come with the territory. No one quite has the measure of it yet.
Talk to sommeliers and vintners about Brettanomyces, which is just as happy to drift into a wine cask. It is universally a fault, says one; or it has its place in certain heritage reds, says another; or to a third, it is a golden frontier of invention to play in. Most agree that under a certain threshold the yeast is innocuous.
Read enough about it and you start to suspect that Brettanomyces is usually taken to suggest the presence of the site of work behind sweetness, behind a pleasant saturated gold.
RAINBOW ROSE FLOWER SEEDS
Every landscape is open to hazard. What would it mean to culture, to rot, to ferment a landscape? I mean, I guess, what would it take to show that you were doing it intentionally? To brew a landscape, and make it look as though it had been brewed, to spur a desire for such a place? To achieve that, you would have to reach beyond design, beyond writing your message across the site in letters big and small. You would instead go around collecting, convening the landscape from whatever set of materials would cascade together, would interact to form a community; and such a community would have to be something different than the sum of its part. Ideally, you would walk out of it with a revelation somehow borne from what seemed at first to be the site’s stubborn attention to wrong detail – a mossy rail, a patch of poke, a splat of berries in bird droppings.
MOON LANDING HOAX
Michael DeForge published his comic Birds of Maine on Instagram before issuing a commercial version on paper last year. In the comic, birds have fled from the earth to live on the moon. They live without scarcity, living off an endlessly regenerating worm. They create various ecological internets to communicate, internets that seem a little unsettling because they do not follow the dictated rules of human communication – that messages are dead depictions of human thoughts.
In interviews, DeForge comes across as a standard-issue despairing leftist, which makes the actual work yet more of a miracle; it is resolute, cheerful, a pool of hope. It demonstrates what it wants to uphold, in part by undercutting itself; it says “I’m not pure,” “I’m not right,” “I don’t know.” The first panels of many strips build up an argument, only for a final joke to gently let the air out of it. Other times, the speech balloons disappear entirely, and you are left with the flat psychedelia of DeForge’s images, where birds become icons mostly lost in the web of their surroundings.
DeForge’s lunar community is fermented from the one Ursula K. Le Guin described in The Dispossessed, an anarchist culture that has departed in protest from a highly unequal planet. Le Guin’s people serve as a de facto mining colony for the planet they spurn, trading the moon’s material for their own independence. Their society is in near danger of over-forming itself, relying on rigid computerized systems to hold off hierarchy. In adding in ferment as one of its operating principles, DeForge’s cloudcuckooland neatly solves that problem. Like Le Guin’s later creation, the Kesh, DeForge’s birds are not exact in their archives; once left, their products grow, merge, shrink, and stink.
CELEBRATING THE JOYS OF THE GARDEN
I show my students Clément’s Garden in Movement and warn against it. No one can see this, I say, no one can repeat this. It has no form. If you have the chance to do something, you should do something definite, and not wait at the edge of the property line for something to happen. But then, I never show them the pictures of the workers busy cutting paths in the garden – because I don’t have any.
For once, I could let go of “what is to be done?” I could instead say “what is possible here?” Who has the ability to read a fermented text, or listen to fermented music? But any garden is fermented, if only by virtue of the seeds that have blown into it, by virtue of the limbs that grow and break from its trees, and most of all virtue of the people busy around its sides.